01 Nov Tips for Managing the Growth of Spring
Weed, Fertilise, Prune, Mulch ……AND REPEAT!
As the days get longer and the temperatures get warmer you will expect a large amount of growth in your garden from both the plants and the weeds. This is all likely to be happening in one big flurry especially with the amount of moisture we have in the soil and then if we do get more rain the growth will be rapid. The key at this point is to not feel overwhelmed. I normally break a garden down into areas or sections and give myself the aim to tackle one of these areas or sections at a time. It doesn’t matter how small the area is, you decide the size of the space depending on your physical capabilities and your time availability Often at this time of year you get drawn in every direction between mowing, whipper snipping, pruning, weeding, fertilising and mulching that you can end up making very little progress.
STEP ONE – Order or Buy Materials such as Mulch, Compost and/or Fertiliser
I would recommend first of all if you know you need to add mulch, compost and fertiliser to the garden then order all your materials in one go so you will save time from running back and forth to the mulch seller, you will save on freight if you need to get it delivered and then you will have it ready on hand for when you need it.
STEP TWO – Breakdown the Garden into sections and choose a place to start,
by having the garden broken down into sections you will complete each area before you move to the next. I have to admit I usually pick the first area to be an area that is highly visible – one which you walk past each day. This is purely because I will see this area all the time and it will give me inspiration to carry on with the spring garden maintenance.
STEP THREE – Weeding
Pulling the weeds out with all their roots or bulbs intact is highly important to prevent further weed problems in the future. Any weeds that have a bulb may need the soil around them to be dug out as well. It is good to have a bucket or a layer of newspaper at hand where you can place these bulbous weeds and sift through the soil to remove the bulbs first before putting the soil back in place. When you start weeding have a bucket or garden trug to put the weeds in next to you. This needs to be a container that you can lift and carry once it’s totally full, be aware of how high you can lift the bucket when you are filling them up. Then also organise to have the green waste bin, ute, trailer or wheelbarrow close by so you don’t have to go far to dispose of them. Try not to double handle your weeds as much as possible.
STEP FOUR – Complete a mini site assessment of the plants within the area –
Try to assess what the plants and garden soil need?
With the weeds all gone you will be able to see all your plantings clearly. Are they healthy? Do they need pruning? Do they need fertilising or compost? Does the irrigation work?
– First look at the overall health of the plants, check for pest and disease. Treat anything you notice.
– Is there irrigation in the area? Does it work? Has it been switched off all winter – check that the drip holes or sprays aren’t blocked. Add in any new lines if you think the beds needed more water on those hot days last Summer.
– Pruning can be done at this time too. This may be in the form of removing dead wood, completing formative pruning on shrubs or trees, cutting back perennials (be careful of any late frosts) or pruning to shape hedged or formed plantings. If the cuttings are light leaf cuttings or small thin pieces of wood (NOT diseased) I normally leave them on the beds as they will be mulched over and will only add goodness to the soil as they break down. If they are larger pieces of heavy wood, then you can remove them or cut them down to smaller pieces.
– Lightly dig through or spread some compost to those beds where you think the soil needs a refresh and boost of organic matter.
– Add fertiliser if needed – I would normally recommend giving the bed a watering once the weeds are out, spread an organic pelleted fertiliser and some slow-release fertiliser to all the plants then water this in well. I would then do an application of a liquid fertiliser and or root revitaliser such as a seaweed emulsion. I normally recommend fertilising your garden with at least something each season. Many gardeners don’t recommend fertilising in Summer because of the heat or in Winter because there is not alot of root or shoot growth however I would say a liquid fertiliser at those times won’t hurt your plants and will help them towards more growth in the growing seasons.
STEP FIVE – Add the mulch
Dressing the bed in a layer of mulch up to 50 mm in depth will finish the beds off nicely. Mulch will act as weed suppressant, insulate the soil during temperature extremes, help hold the moisture in the soil and also as it breaks down it will add organic matter to the soil (as long as you are using an organic mulch). If you have the time laying down a layer of wet newspaper prior to spreading the mulch will help prevent any other weeds from sprouting through.
The first garden area will then be put to bed. I always think of the mulch as a nice warm blanket or cool cotton sheet that will cover the roots of the plant for that season. The area is now completed.
THEN YOU CAN RELAX – give yourself a break before tackling the next area.
By completing one area at a time you have given yourself a range of activities to stop the boredom from only doing one repetitive task. It is also better for your body as you are not just down in the one position doing one task for an extended period. You will be completing a variety of activities which use all different parts and muscles of your body. Always remember to have a water bottle within reach from wherever you are working as they say if you feel thirsty then you are already dehydrated.
Having these Spring tasks completed you will then hopefully only have to focus on the watering and removing the weeds as they pop up for a little while.